Valencia, days two and three

Sunday September 17

Today, after a relaxed lunch we walked around the centre of town exploring before deciding to take advantage of the beautiful weather and head to the beach. We headed back to the hostel, locked up our valuables and took the "fast tram" down to the beach where we whiled away the
afternoon, swimming and chilling out on the sand. We returned a few hours later, hungry and beached out, and went out for dinner. After that we went to bed, all a little sunburnt - I think it's comical that the only time I got burnt in Europe was in Autumn, not Summer.

Monday September 18

Today we explored a few churches including the Cathedral where we climbed the tower. From there we had a great bird's eye view of Spain's third largest city - even seeing to the coast. We then wandered around the market before heading to the train station where we caught the bus
to a collection of modernistic, Stargate style buildings; the Art Museum, the Science Museum and the IMAX and Planetarium. Unprepared to pay the exorbitant entrance fees we then mad our way back to the hostel for a siesta. After resting for a while we headed out for dinner for
Paella, to a place recommended by the hostel. Although it was nice, it didn't match my first Paella in Tarragona. We then hit the sack in anticipation of our return to Barcelona, from where I will fly on to London on Wednesday.

Tarragona to Valencia

Saturday September 16

This morning we dumped our bags at the hotel after check-out and went to explore the town further by day. After visiting the Market (extensive for a student town) we headed back to the old Roman headquarters, further exploring the city wall. After that we just had enough time to visit the Cathedral and grounds before heading back to the hotel to pick up our bags and get the bus to the station (the longest 2km trip ever - I think we visited every part of the city).

After a two hour train journey we found our way to the hostel where we checked in for a siesta before heading out for dinner. Traveling days are always tiring, and after dinner we were all happy to head back to the hostel for some sleep.

Barca to Tarragona

Thursday September 14

After dinner tonight we caught the Metro to the Palacio where, according to the friendly guy at the tourist information centre, there was to be a weekly night lights show, and show there was. The whole avenue and hill up to the palace was lit up with the highlight and centrepiece being a dynamic fountain which changed both colour and shape with the lights and jets every thirty seconds. They say pictures tell a thousand words, check out the photos of the palace and fountains on http://unimelbedu.facebook.com/photos.php?id=218100724&l=47660

Friday September 15

Today we packed up and metroed to the train station where we bought tickets to Tarragona. A little over two hours later we we sitting in a hotel (a HOTEL!!) for a two minute breather before checking this town out!

After a long-awaited packet pizza lunch at a local café we wandered down the main drag to the end, a panoramic lookout over the Mediterranean. We then headed walked another 50 metres for a great overhead view of the Roman Amphitheatre before entering the old Roman city wall, which doubles as a Museum, for free! (You've got to love traveling out of peak season!) After that, and taking advantage of the gorgeous weather - in contrast to Barcelona, we headed back to the hotel to change and head to the beach.

After a the walking, a bus trip and a swim in the Mediterranean (on a beatiful beach in 35 degree heat... ) we'd worked up an appetite and headed back to find some grub. Paella was the meal of choice (a typical Spanish dish - sort of Risotto with seafood) and Lonely Planet told us the Port was the place to find it, but how to find the port? Hmmm.... we set off at first in the wrong direction, finding ourselves in a one way street. There was, however a bunch of young people with cars at the end of the street and I decided I'd pluck up the courage to try my Spanish and ask for directions. Well, we got more than we bargained for. After the group of well-intentioned but not very helpful youths had taken my map and squabbled with each other for a few minutes one of the guys decided to take control of the situation. "Over here, get in the car please" came the request in Spanish and broken English. We looked at each other, a little unshore and a little uneasy until his girlfriend (with better English) repeated "get in the car, please." We got in.

Driving down to the ports we chatted with the two in the front about what they were doing and about Tarragona, being interrupted occationally by driving alongside the other car of the group and shouting things through open windows. "They are crazy", the girlfriend calmly explains with a smile. Being the good hearted people they were they suggested we eat in the town to save money. "We're after Paella," I said, and the reply cam "the Port, definitely the Port." "It's good there - although my Mum makes good Paella." Suddenly, and before we knew it, we'd stopped. "Here, you eat here. This is the best Paella." We took their word for it and ate there.

It was not only the best Paella in Tarragona, it was the best meal I'd had since travelling - and not the most expensive!

After very much satisfying our taste buds and filling our bellies we walked it off, heading back into town enjoying La Cubana, a latino band, playing as part of a Tarragona festival and the city under lights before heading back to the hotel for some rest.

Tarragona has been my favourite Spanish town. Imagine having a student town, not too busy as it's still quite small, with history dating back to before Christ which also has strong coastal influences of both a port and fantastic beaches! It's my cuppa tea!

Barcelona, days two and three

Wednesday September 13

We started our second day looking forward - taking a trip to the train station to buy tickets for our onward journey - to Tarragona, Valencia and back.

After a long wait and a test for my Spanish (which I left happy) we began a tour of the artworks of Barca's most famous architect, Gaudi. After getting off a the Sagrada Familia metro we saw the church itself and, after considering the entrance prices decided to continue on foot rather than go inside. We then saw two more of his buildings. For those who've not heard of him before (most I assume, unless I was alone in the dark) his architectural style is a unique one with his buildings resembling imperfections in the very earth - rising up like muddy, colourful, or wavy earth-forms.

From there we walked back into the city, taking in the cathedral with more awake eyes and then walking around the foreshore and ports - this time successfully and staying dry. We then went back and cooked before going for a few drinks at a British pub with Ross, a cockney geezer we'd met at the hostel yesterday.

Thursday September 14

Rain again today... the rain in Spain seems to fall mainly in Barcelona.

We caught the metro into town in and walked around in search of the Museo Picasso. An hour later, and only after asking an old local lady for directions, we finally found it, only to find long queues. We ditched the idea and opted instead for a visit to a nearby church, Iglesia de Santa Maria del Mar. Then we wandered down to the beach and the Mediterranean, which, unlike the Adriatic at Venezia, actually has waves. After having a chuckle at Kelso who managed to lose both thongs in the waves (and through loss of life and limb retrieved them) we went for another wander around the port where we ate lunch and searched without success for films showing in English.

After that we walked back via La Rambla (the main street) where we detoured into a market and bought supplies for a dinner of fish and vegetables.

Madrid to the Mediterranian - an eventful day in retrospect

Tuesday September 12

We rose at 3:30 am. Need I say more?

It was beginning to half-heartedly rain as we climbed into the taxi at 3.55 and we were at the airport for check in within 15 minutes after the 2nd fastest taxi ride of my life (matched only by one I recall back in 1995).

The flight, contrary to the prediction of "some turbulence due to storms" was smooth for its entire 50 minute duration and our landing on the Barcelona beach was comfortably soft. After touchdown we collected our bags and headed into the city to find our hostel. It was raining.

We found the hostel without any hassles but were too early for check-in so we dumped our bags and started to walk. It started raining... harder.
We stopped at the nearest shelter - a café with a menu all filled with words unfamiliar to me. Xocolata??? Welcome to Catalonia. After propping ourselves up on our arms or anything else we could find for around an hour in an attempt to stay awake the rain let up a little and we were able to continue our walk. Tired legs, tired eyes and tired bodies didn't carry us far and we got as far as Plaça Catalonia where we stopped for a look around before heading back just in time to check in and crash!

I woke some time later, groggy from over-afternoon sleeping and hungry from under-afternoon eating, so we headed into the city for a little more exploring and some tucker! After stumbling across the cathedral and Plaça Reial (Royal Square) we found a Tapas bar we'd seeked out and tucked into some delicious Tapas. After dinner we decided to take advantage of the lack of rain for a while and pay a visit to the foreshore. We walked through the pretty back lanes of Barcelona towards the foreshore and were encouraged by the palm-lined boulevard in front -
seemed something like the palms at St Kilda beach, Melbourne. We started to cross the boulevard when an instantaneous storm-like shower began dropping many, thick rain drops. however it stopped as soon as it started. It was weird. We had noticed the strong winds in the palms, but I'd never really seen anything like it before. We stood there for a moment looking at each other with shrugged shoulders and confused eyes.

The moment had barely passed when it happened... it really set in. The same drops, the same frequency. I'm not talking about just rain, or even a typical Melbourne (or German for that matter) rain-storm. This was the kind of rain that soaks you in seconds. The word starting with M and ending in onsoon springs to mind. It was wet. It was very wet. We sprinted for the nearest cover, but alas, the "see breeze" would ensure it was to no avail. We were soaked through in no time, and, after safely putting unwettables in a plastic bag we walked through the Barcelona streets, or more precisely, creeks, in the dark, arms outstretched to the heavens letting it soak us through. Our roles had suddenly switched from sight-seeers to the sight itself!
Now something like this is a good test of a city... I mean it's easy to love a city when the sun is shining and the air is warm, but what about when it puts on its worst weather?? Barcelona rose to meet the rain.

Chatty crowds lined the streets, seeking shelter and laughing at the rain. Plaça Catalonia was filled with a crowd of crazies. The were brass instruments playing and hundreds of young people dancing barefoot in the rain. Writing this it sounds more like I'm describing a dream than reality, and perhaps it was, but if you like you can ask Lish or Kelso for verification!

Returning to the hostel like a drowned rat I enjoyed a very long shower and a warm, dry bed very much.

WELCOME TO BARCELONA

Madrid, the heart of España

Thursday September 7

Today, seeking an introduction to Madrid and looking into options ofwhat to do here for more than three days (the extent of Lonely Planet's coverage), we walked to Plaza Mayor (Main Square) for the information office and a grand intro to Spanish architecture and life. Armed with pamphlets and guides we took a self-guided walking tour visiting significant sights including the city hall, cathedral, palace, senate, site of the Spanish inquisition and finishing at Plaza del Sol (Square of the Sun). We stopped nearby for a traditional Spanish lunch of Tortilla de Patatas (Potato Omelet) after which we went back for a siesta followed by a couple of drinks at the corner bar while waiting for the restaurants to open. We ate at a Mexican restaurant across the road that we'd sussed out earlier and enjoyed a fantastic meal. After the meal we went back to the bar before hitting the sack.

Friday September 8

Today we went back in to visit the Palacio Real (Royal Palace), a 17th century construction and former home of Carlos V and a number of other regal personalities, which, apart from its size, is also impressive for its furnishing. The impressively exorbitant chapel, dining room complete with a very royal table and lavishly decorated and childhood-imagination inspiring throne room in the main wing were all highlights, while on the side wings the armoury and pharmacy were also interesting.

We came out of the palace just in time for the cathedral to close (2-5 pm siesta hours), so we walked instead down the hill (where we saw locals washing their socks in a fountain) to the Palace's gardens where we walked and took it easy in true Spanish afternoon style before heading up to Plaza España, with its memorial to Don Quijote, and then back to the cathedral and crypt. Both were grand structures, the cathedral, a relatively modern construction, had a particular Spanish flair to its interior design while the crypt, much older than the church it supports, was dark and meditative.

After visiting the crypt we walked home, buying supplies along the way, cooked dinner and went to bed.

Saturday September 9

On Saturday, after a short side-trip, we took a trip to the Madrid Zoo, boasting a large collection of species from across the globe, and spent six hours there. Highlights included the dolphin, seal and bird shows, the bears, tigers and the many species I'd never set eyes on before.

After the zoo we headed back to the hostel for something to eat and a change of clothes before heading out again to fulfill the purpose of our morning side-trip - we'd secured tickets to a Spanish Premier League Football game!! It was Atlético Madrid vs. Valencia - two top team rivals, guaranteed to be an entertainer, and entertainer it was.

After some good play from both teams, Valencia scored a well-deserved goal before earning a red card that looked likely to change the fate of the game. However, before Atletico Madrid could equalize, they earned a red card themselves only to bring the game to a slow end leading to tens of thousands of disappointed local fans - a stark contrast to the wild Valencia fans in one corner. The game as a whole was very exciting and the atmosphere was electric.

Sunday September 10

Today, after walking to and around the bustling and gigantic Sunday street flea-markets, we took advantage of the free Sunday entry in the Prado Museum, seeing many religious works, royal portraits and other works by Italian and Spanish greats. We then headed back to the hostel for five minutes before taking the train out to Plaza de Toros (Square of the Bulls) and buying tickets at the stadium there for some traditional, controversial and very Hispanic entertainment. Bull fighting is an interesting sport and not one which I have any desire to visit again, though I also don't regret seeing it once. It involves the very ritualised slaughter of a number of bulls in one sitting by crazy Spanish men armed with a sword and a red rag and is a far cry from the pop-culturalised idea of bullfighting we get from cartoons and television advertising. I found it simultaneously more brutal and savage and more ritualised and ordered than I had imagined.

After the fighting we went back to the hostel for some much needed sleep.

Monday September 11

Today we rose fairly late and walked to the central park. Here we saw fountains, memorials, gardens and a turtle filled pond in front of the Crystal Palace. We lay and read in the shade (the weather has been warm the whole time in Madrid - between 30-35 degrees) and whiled the afternoon away before heading back to cook and get an early night. It would be an early morning...

I really enjoyed Madrid, not so much for its beauty, which does not stand up to other European capitals, as its life and energy. It's a city that has a great atmosphere during the day which only improves into the night.

Photos

If you don't read my blog often and you're wondering where all the photos are at, for your viewing pleasure they're now at http://unimelbedu.facebook.com/photos.php?id=218100724&l=47660 please pay it a visit - it's a much more convenient way to see my piccies.

Cheers

Paris-Madrid

Wednesday September 6

We got up and packed fairly relaxedly, as our flight was not until around 2pm. Caught the train to the Airport where we waited for the plane and our arrival in a country I'd never visited. From the air there we fantastic views of the Pyrenees after which we descended into Madrid.

Our first night was fairly subdued here - after checking into the hostel (making use of my limited Spanish to find the place!) we walked into the city centre (noticing the extraordinary quantity of street workers) for a light meal before heading back to the hostel. I walked back to the metro at around 9.30pm to pick up Kelso, who was rejoining us after finishing his internship in Stuttgart, Germany, and we caught up on stories before hitting the sack.

Back to the heart of France

Tuesday September 5

Today, having discovered that there was no left luggage service at the train station, we left our bags at the hostel and headed in to explore Blois in a little more depth. We started off at the Château de Blois, an older brother of Château Chambord and former capital of France, however it was neither as grand nor as fairy-tale inspiring as the Château from yesterday. It did however have an impressive spiral staircase - also not as impressive as Chambords double-helix - and great views over the city and the river.

After the castle, we took the stairs down the valley-side to a church then back up the hill again to the cathedral before stopping for a coffee and heading back to collect our bags.

We got back into Paris at around 6pm and had a reasonable early night before a flying day tomorrow.

odyssey2006 Photos! IMPORTANT

For all of you who have been checking out my blog to view photos, things are now set to change.

For past and present odyssey2006 photos please see my Facebook Photo albums or try this address http://unimelbedu.facebook.com/photos.php?id=218100724&l=47660

I'm doing this for two reasons:

1. It's easier for me. It's so easy for me to upload photos to facebook.
2. It's easier for you. And you will no longer have to wait hours for my blog to download!!!

Enjoy

DH

16th Century Châteaus, a more ancient town and even more ancient public transport network?

Sunday September 3

Today we took the train to Blois, arriving at around 2pm. I tried to find out where our hostel was and which bus to take. After about an hour of waiting in queues and attempting with limited success to bridge the language barrier we decided that this nut was too tough to crack and we opted for a taxi. A good thing we did, we would've been waiting till 6 for a bus!

We arrived at the hostel at around three and read the note on the door: "Hostel closed from 10am to 6pm every day". 10am TO 6pm EVERY DAY!!! what ridiculous hours to be closed! I ignored the sign and rang the doorbell. After a few minutes a bothered looking French lady opened the door. "Yes?" she said in a French accent. "Um... I have a booking for two beds". "Okay, but we're closed..." a pause... "but you can put your bags inside." This offer seemed rather unwillingly made and was very readily accepted.

After dumping our bags we inquired about buses into, of which there were none, and then began walking. An hour and a half, and five kilometers later we found ourselves back at the train station at the edge of the town centre. We'd walked through the countryside though and there were some classic ivy-draped French houses, a crowing rooster and views of the Loire river along the way.

We walked into and around the town, void of all but a little life on this Sunday, and sat down for a drink at one of the few cafés which were actually open before heading back to the station to catch the bus to the hostel. There we met Maribí, a Mexican girl and Celine, a French girl with very little English, who we spent the evening with.

Monday September 4

We caught the bus from the hostel at 9.30 today in to the city where we wandered around to find the tourist information centre. We wanted to check out a Château from the area and after chatting with the office and skimming some flyers we decided for Château Chambord, around 16kms to the east. The bus didn't leave until 12.15, so we took another short self-guided tour of the town before having a coffee then heading to the station to catch the bus.

The Château was magnificent (just the kind of word they love to use for this kind of thing) - the kind that rekindles the spark of the childhood imagination. You could just imagine Kings and Queens here, as well as courtiers, armies, battles, victories and defeats. The reality was somewhat more subdues; the Château actually served as a hunting lodge for the King, and was barely even used even for that.

We spent around 5 hours exploring the Château and its grounds before catching the bus back into town. We bought some supplies and then heading back to the hostel to cook up a Cous Cous dinner. Oui, oui.

From red lights to regal rites

Friday September 1

After dinner last night we took a walk through the red-light district, just a couple of blocks away from the hostel, to le Moulin Rouge. This occupied all of about half an hour as shows there are around €250!
Afterwards we went back to the hostel for a beer before hitting the sack.

Saturday September 2

Today we took the train 21 kms out of Paris to the Chateâu de Versailles in, you guessed it, Versailles. Although expensive it was worth a look and a ticket saw us through the palace's opera house and chapel as well as the bedrooms of the Bourbons. The rich history of the palace was fascinating... if walls could talk there would be tales of France's royal family, revolutionaries and revolutionary treaties, Napoleon and a 20th century European peace treaty.

We were back at the hostel by 6.30 and are now making preparations to leave for Blois, in the Loire valley (a wine-growing region) tomorrow.

Venice to Paris

Tuesday August 29

After waiting hours in the Venice airport we flew to Paris, arriving around 10.30 and leaving the airport with bags at about eleven. We rushed to the shuttle bus ticket queue and got on the bus as quickly as possible, around 11.15. The airport was around 80km from the city centre, so a little over an hour later we were in Paris and racing the clock to catch the last metro train to the hostel. We rushed to the nearest metro and descended the stairs only to find a long queue for tickets. An American girl approached and asked if we were headed for Pigalle. We we staying in the area so I said "yeah, around there". We tried to work out how we were going to get there by the metro map before giving up entirely and deciding a taxi was a better option. I asked the Californian girl if she and her friend were keen to catch a cab with us and there we were a few minutes later, four freshly-arrived foreigners in the middle of the night in Paris trying our best French with a taxi driver whose jaw remained ajar at the shock of the idea of four people and six bags being stacked into his car. All turned out well and we arrived at the hostel before the 2am curfew without having broken the budget. Phew.

Welcome to Paris!

Wednesday August 30

After a late night, some restless sleep and being woken early by the hair-drying and tooth-scrubbing habits of a pair (or was it a dozen) of very VERY image conscious Cantonese guys we decided to take it easy on day one and then did the opposite. We started out with a morning walk in the sunshine on Montmatre, the vicinity of the hostel, including the Sacred Heart Cathedral. Then we walked back down the hill and into the city centre, via the Opera house, ultimately ending up at Place de Concorde and the Seine. After a walk through the gardens to the Louvre, we made for the hostel, stopping for lunch along the way, where we
caught up on internet necessities. In the evening we made an even longer walk after a dinner of Chinese back to the Louvre and from there to the Arc de Triumph, taking in picturesque Paris by night along the way. We then made for le Tour Eiffel with the metro where we took plenty of
photos before heading back for some much needed sleep.

First impressions of Paris for me were positive. Montmatre and the Sacred Heart Cathedral were a great start to Paris, with tight winding lanes, good views and quaint shops. However, after the days walking I was confused about the origins of the rumour that Paris is romantic. I
found the broad boulevards and cafés give the city quite a relaxed feel, but not romantic... Paris by night is something else again - let's just say that (like Venice) when you're separated from your "significant other" (thanks facebook) by the Atlantic Ocean, Paris by night is not the ideal place to be.

And for the people... despite a seemingly grumpy taxi driver on arrival, Parisians have contrary to their reputation, been nothing but friendly and helpful since I've been here, a nice change from Italy, and even the taxi driver warmed up to us by the end, attempting jokes and small talk in what little English he could speak.

Thursday August 31

Well, two of the worlds most famous sights are not to be taken lightly and this day was spent visiting them... can you guess??

In the morning we'd planned to beat the crowds to the Eiffel Tower. In terms of beating, nothing happened on that score as we weren't there until late morning, however the crowds were negligible and we walked right up to the gate to climb the stairs. The views from the first and
second platforms were exceptional, and while the view from the top was also excellent it is so far from the ground that it was more surreal.

Tired after climbing many stairs, we lay on the grass in the sun looking up at the tower and tucking away a well deserved, but not cheap, lunch.

After a rest we gather up our energy and headed for the Louvre where we spent a few hours. Apparently there's a couple of famous artworks there, one's a painting of this lady who looks at you walk past by some Italian guy. Another is a sculpture with no arms... something about a planet or something.

Friday September 1

Well, summer is over, but Autumn is definitely here. The days are sunny but cool and the leaves are browning.

Today saw us walking the path of the Revolutionaries in 1789 from le Hotel de Invalides to the Place de la Bastille, only we had significantly fewer weapons, caused significantly less bloodshed and made a few touristy stopovers along the way. They were Notre Dame and the Pantheon. Notre Dame is amazing, and together with Montmatre would have to be one of the highlights of Paris. I went into the cathedral for a look around and a prayer, then after lunch climbed the tower taking in gargoyles, city views and bells made famous by Victor Hugo and a man
with a hump on his back.